March 2019 / Two Weeks in Japan

Coming to you live from Japan.  This is the first blog I’ve penned outside of the US.  For this month’s post I will summarize my experiences in each locality as well as some insight I’ve gained.  I expect the real impact of this trip will be felt in the weeks, months, and years after I return stateside.  I can tell you that I’m already planning my return to this marvelous country.  Despite the numerous places I visited, I didn’t check everything off my bucket list.  Okay, okay, here goes….

 

 

JAPAN

I have wanted to visit Japan for ~15 years now.  The fact that it’s happened still feels unreal.  It probably won’t hit me that I’m here until months after I’ve returned home.  This place is fantastic.  It has exceeded my expectations in so many ways.  The countryside, the people, the food, and the history have blown me away.  Not to mention the infrastructure is frighteningly efficient.  And toilets wash (and warm) your booty!  Seriously, the “western-style” toilets are my jam.  It’s like a bunch of me’s joined together and decided to make a country.  OK, that’s a bit of a stretch, but you get the idea.  My overview of my visit to Japan is just that.  It has been a whirlwind of activity.  One drawback of visiting so many places in so little time is a lack of depth.  But I’m fine with that.  This is what I wanted for my first trip here, a little taste of everything.

 

 

TOKYO

Every city I visited had its own personality.  Of course, in the case of Tokyo, it has at least 23 personalities since it’s made up of 23 wards.  And I only visited four.  The sprawling metropolis was breathtaking.  The train stations alone were overwhelming, especially at rush hour.  There was something new around every corner – a delicious restaurant, a hole in the wall sake shop, or some random attraction – and it felt like there were infinite corners.  On my first day in the city, I had the assistance of an amazing guide.  She explained the transit system (trains & cabs), procedures at shrines (Buddhist and Shinto), and restaurant etiquette.  It was a useful introduction to a convenient, but sometimes complex and unfamiliar, country.  Unfortunately, I was in Tokyo for only 2 days.  I didn’t have a chance to see much, even though I saw a lot.  Honestly, I spent a considerable amount of time in a daze of disbelief.  Plus, I had severe jet-lag, so I wasn’t in the best headspace during the first few days of the trip.  Thus, I plan to return post haste to visit the districts of Shibuya, Akihabara, and Ikebukuro.

What I learned:  Diving into a new place – even if it’s a place you’ve always wanted to visit – can be frightening.  But that’s half the fun.  As a friend of mine likes to see “When you’re uncomfortable, you’re growing.”

 

KAMAKURA

Kamakura was the next stop.  I went from a sprawling megalopolis to a small coastal city.  Prior to booking this trip – and despite my persistent interest in Japan – I had never heard of Kamakura.  I didn’t know what to expect.   I was a little worried that I may be underwhelmed.  WRONG!  It was a perfect introduction into “small(er) town” Japan and the country’s hidden treasures.  I visited a temple (Hase dera), a statue (Daibutsu or the Great Buddha), and a bamboo garden (Hokoku-ji).   Sounds simple, right?  WRONG AGAIN!  That simple sentence can’t do the experience justice.  Although I’d visited two temples in Tokyo, Hase dera made a connection with me.  Maybe it was climbing all of the damn stairs.  Or maybe it was the giant 3-story 11-headed incarnation of Buddha (which I couldn’t photograph).  Either way, it was the first time I’d prayed rightfully in a long time…right there….on a tatami mat…..before another large Buddha (which I could and did photograph).  Mind still blown.  I did take some talk to walk the streets of Kamakura (I enjoy walking the streets of a town to ascertain its personality) and enjoy the local cuisine.

What I learned:  Sometimes the places (or experiences) you least anticipate can have the greatest impact on you.  This lesson never gets old and never ceases to excite me.

 

HAKONE

My stay in Hakone – albeit brief, cold, and wet – was novel.  Hakone was my first taste of the Japanese countryside and its mountainous terrain.  It was beautiful and serene.  I stayed at my first Japanese inn, or ryokan.  I had to remove my shoes and store them in lockers during the duration of my stay.  If that wasn’t neat enough, I wore a yukata for the first time!  I spent my time in Hakone touring Lake Ashi, specifically the Hakone Checkpoint (as featured in episode 9 of Samurai Champloo), the Cedar Highway, and the Hakone Shrine.

 

What I learned:  All tennis shoes are not equal in the rain.

 

 

TAKAYAMA

Takai = tall.  Yama = mountain.  That sums it up.  Takayama is located in the Japanese Alps.  It was even colder than Hakone (the entire trip was cold) and it snowed during most of my time there.  But it was a GORGEOUS and walkable town (albeit most of Japan is walkable).  I enjoyed the Hide beef, numerous shrines, quaint neighborhoods, and snow-covered cemeteries (ok that sounds creepier than it is).  My favorite part was probably the ryokan.  I experienced my first traditional Japanese meal presented as an eight-course dinner served by an assigned member of the staff.  She was so sweet, polite, and patient.  The morning breakfasts, hosted in a large decorative dining hall, were just as delightful.

 

What I learned:  Takayama taught me priorities.  It forced me to ask myself why I’m not seeking out passionate experiences.  It made me question aspects of my life – people, profession, lifestyle, hobbies, etc.  I realized I may not be steering my life in the direction that’s best for me.

 

 

KOYA-SAN

Situated atop a moutain, Koya-san is a spiritual haven founded by the monk, Kukai.  This place was one of the deepest – if not the deepest – experience(s) I had in Japan.  I stayed in a Buddhist temple.  Yes, you read that right.  Breakfast and dinner were both vegetarian meals ☹, with dinner being served to us by a Buddhist monk.  Yes, you’re reading all of this correctly.  BUT before breakfast, I did something I never thought I’d do.  I woke up at 5 AM for a 6:30 AM prayer service.  Y’all I didn’t wake up that early for Jesus when I attended church with my parents as a kid.  And it was freezing!  Temperatures were around 35 F that morning.  The temple, as you may have guessed, had no central air or heat.  But the prayer service (~45 minutes) was so interesting.  I found myself wondering how people have spiritual awakenings and inspirations.  In that moment of bone chilling cold, incense, and incantation I had a realization myself.  It’s still kinda foggy, but I had a sense of needing to let go and I felt a burden lift from my chest.  Koya-san awakened something within me, something I’m still wrestling to understand.  Then again, maybe I was just cold.

 

What I learned:  1) The necessity and importance of inner peace.  2) I don’t have inner peace.  3) I’m going to have to change large aspects of my life to achieve peace.

 

 

OSAKA

I did not spend enough time in Osaka.  Less than a day.  What little of the city I saw, I really liked.  The Doguyasuji shopping arcade was dope!  So many restaurants, unique shops, and trendy stores.  I enjoyed the best tempura and the second-best sake I had on the trip.  I went to see Alita, which prompted my first movie going experience in Japan.  The theatre was smaller, but not dissimilar from theatres I frequented as a child.  Osaka, despite being the second largest city in Japan, felt distinctly different from Tokyo.  I know there’s a difference in dialect and some nuances with transportation.  But the vibe wasn’t the same.  And I appreciated that.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t see more of the city (or visit a maid café), so it’s definitely on my list of places to return.

 

What I learned:  By the time I hit Osaka, I started to understand how balance impacts daily life in Japan.  You can see it even in the meals.  Some fruit, some vegetables, some meat, some starch.  Not too much of any one food group or ingredient.  That balance plays an essential part in health and maintaining inner peace.

 

 

HIMEJI

Himeji was a planned detour en route to Hiroshima.  The purpose was to visit the famous Himeji Castle, which I consider quintessential Japan.  Despite climbing six flights of stairs and walking until my feet fell off, the castle was a fantastic learning experience.  I gained an appreciation for Japanese architecture and history.  Afterwards, just to make a great day greater, I ate the best ramen I’ve had in Japan for lunch.  The setting was also one of my favorites –jazz music in the background, a friendly chef, and a random English teacher from Arizona.

 

What I learned:  I’m still trying too hard to please other people when it comes to the big choices in my life.  When it comes to my career and how I want to live my life, it’s time I do what’s best for me.

 

 

HIROSHIMA / MIYAJIMA ISLAND

The two days spent in Hiroshima were like day and night.  On the one hand, there was Miyajima Island, located off the coast about ~11 miles from the city center.  This gorgeous, mountainous island was a combination of cute deer, aesthetic temples, delicious food, and amazing views.  The ropeway up Mount Misen offered breathtaking views and scared me shitless (not a fan of heights).  On the other hand, there was the A-Bomb Dome and the Peace Memorial Museum and Park.  These sites chronicle the obliteration of Hiroshima by the atomic bomb in World War II.  It forced me to reflect on war and violence and the savage things we humans do to one another.  I learned the reprehensible consequences of inhumane actions.  But I learned something else in Hiroshima.  My entire life I’d always thought of it as “that Japanese city we [the US] nuked in WWII”.  Upon visiting the city, however, I discovered that Hiroshima is far more than just that one horrific moment.  It’s full of so much life, history, and personality.  The people were so unique – noticeably more individualistic choices in hair style and clothing.  The food was fantastic (the okonomiyaki was MOUTH WATERING).  And it was so picturesque, from Hiroshima Castle to its many rivers.  Plus, the city is growing, with lots of new construction.

 

What I learned:  In recent years I’ve placed the value of freedom of speech above that of human decency.  I’ve claimed that hate speech is a right, even if we don’t like it.  I’ve changed my tune, thanks to Hiroshima.

 

 

KYOTO

I’m writing this on my last day in Kyoto.  Technically, my experience won’t be finished when I publish this, but it’s damned close.  I’ve had the pleasure of visiting several beautiful temples within the city, dining at a delicious sukiyaki restaurant, and staying at a stylish hotel.  Serving as the capital of Japan for 1000 years, the city is swimming in history and culture.  I’ve seen more kimonos in the past two days than in the previous ten.  Yet, I feel like I haven’t seen anything at all.  There are many more places I’d love to experience, which is why Kyoto is also on my itinerary for a future trip.

 

What I learned:  Processing….

 

 

PERSPECTIVE

There’s nothing like travelling – especially to another country – to make you ask yourself “What the fuck am I doing with my life?” By my fourth day in Japan I was asking myself this question constantly.  Why am I doing work I don’t enjoy?  Why am I considering career paths I don’t want?  Why am I spending so much time around people who I don’t like (and make me a worse person)?  Why – after all of my personal growth – am I continuing to waste time and energy on toxic people and situations?  The answers aren’t easy.  Life is complicated.  If I’ve learned one thing on this trip, it’s the importance of balance, inner peace, and passion.  It’s time for me to seek out more of that in my own life.

 

 

CURRENT SHOWS

Recently finished:  Sex Education

Currently watching:  Ajin: Demi-human; Madam Secretary (s1); Russian Doll

 

 

Thank you again for reading!  If you have any questions specific to the trip or Japan, please feel free to ask.  My next blog is scheduled for Thursday, April 11^th.  Until next time….